My plane from SFO to Anchorage touched down late at night on Sunday, July 23. I checked into the Hotel Captain Cook. It was after 11 and all the food outlets in the hotel were closed. Bummer. I was famished. I had eaten everything they had given me on the plane, but it wasn’t much. The desk clerk told me there was a Russian dumpling shop across the street that was open until midnight, so I dropped my bags in my room and out I went, as fast as I could.
Like everything Russian, it wasn’t very well lit. So, while I was walking along, where I thought might be across the street from it, and squinting at a sign, I tripped and went down – splat. I landed on my left teat, knee, and pinky finger. I knew enough to throw myself left after last year’s fall had me on crutches for a day. I must not fall on my much reconstructed right knee. I digress, but you should know this. The Mohs surgery I had on my nose last year left a scar because, instead of taking proper care of it post-op, I was waiting in emerg to have my knee X-Rayed, since I couldn’t walk. The doc on duty at 10:00 pm, gave up on trying to read it. There were so many lines going every which way on it, thanks to the comminuted supracondylar and intercondylar fracture of the right distal femur that I suffered at age 23, and had repaired, twice. The knee wasn’t broken. I figured that out for myself when it started getting better in the evening.
Anyway, this was a good fall. The person manning the dumpling shop helped pick me up, fed me and all was well. I had a fabulous night’s sleep.
On Monday, July 24, I was glad I had come in early, it gave me time to work in peace. My supplies had arrived, and the hotel had a business center, where printing was even free. I had no trouble making up my Welcome Packets and, because this was a cruise tour, I included an invitation to join me for a drink on the night before it started, July 25.
I broke my fast at 4:00 pm in Fletcher’s, the Hotel Bar, with a very good clam chowder. Then I went for a long walk and back there later for a pizza and a piece of mud pie.
Once I had cleared my email on Tuesday, July 25, and delivered my welcome packets safely into the hands of the Princess representatives in the hotel, I was free to tour Anchorage. The Princess people were happy to have more goodies to deliver to their guests. I chose the trolley ride for my orientation. It featured a live guide, who was delightful. She told us Alaska is actually one-fifth the size of the whole continental USA and has more coastline. But it only has 300,000 inhabitants. It was discovered in 1776 by Captain James Cook and changed hands a number of times before the Russians sold it to the United States in 1867. They figured they had taken everything of value that it had – mostly furs. It would have made more sense if Canada had bought it, but we were a tad late there, probably busy becoming a country.
Our guide’s patter was fascinating and I learned a lot, which you’ll need to visit yourselves to find out, or read a book, because that’s not what this blog does. It does get personal, though, and I am pleased to report that our female guide caught a 123-lb halibut last year. It took three people to bring it aboard. The reason she was so proud of that is because it was a major factor in how well she and her boyfriend ate last winter.
Alaska has its share of wildfires, over a million acres burned last year, and earthquakes, too, lots of them. A big one hit a suburb of Anchorage, where they made a human chain and saved all but three people. It had happened at 5:30PM on Good Friday, when everybody was at home. They don’t have a lot of roads, so pretty much every family has at least one plane. The average age of a private plane is 51. They build them from kits and just keep fixing them. Most people have pilot’s licenses. Some just fly without them. The stories about all the alcohol available during prohibition, and the working girls, are mostly true. There’s only a 90-day growing season, but it’s light for almost 24 hours. They grow some huge veggies under those conditions and moose love pumpkins.
I puttered around the shops for an hour or so. Andrea Fairchild, my roommate from Magog, in the Eastern Townships southeast of Montreal, arrived late afternoon and mustered for our happy hour in the Crow’s Nest of the Captain Cook at five pm. We were joined by one of our family groups, six people, three generations. They were delightful. Then Andrea and I had dinner in the adjacent restaurant and it was lovely, fresh and fishy.
The real adventure began on Wednesday, July 26Anchorage to McKinley. We boarded one coach and Owen Johnson, patriarch for a group of eleven, was sitting in the front seat with his wife, Joyce. Our bus driver was a real wag and brought “Mr. Johnson” into his commentary on a very regular basis. If I had not had his name on my manifest, I might have thought the bus driver had invented him. Besides the eleven people in the Johnson family, and the other family of six, there are just three independent couples. We got to meet most of them but we weren’t really doing anything together except riding a bus, with a very good driver guide. We checked into the Mt. McKinley Princess Wilderness Lodge around lunchtime and had the afternoon to enjoy the place. I didn’t see how to plan anything, when everyone had different tours, or not, and most of the tours went right through cocktail hour. It was awkward. So we went out drinking and eating and chatted with whomever we met. No one needed us.
Thursday, July 27 was another day like the last one, only McKinley to Denali. More scenery from a bus. Pleasant enough. We are getting to know our people as we ride along with them. It’s clear that there are family dynamics at play and they are fun ones. The lodges at both ends were very nice. We have two nights at Denali. I had thought we would be able to make a group dinner out of the voucher for Fannie Q’s Saloon but that didn’t happen either as people had different tours booked and different diner times. We did circulate through the Saloon and had nice little chats with a number of people, and all was going well.
Friday, July 28, was our big day in Denali. We all had our separate breakfasts at King Salmon Restaurant and they were outstanding. The Lodges really do breakfast well, so well I break my fast to have them. These were blueberry pancakes – yum. Well stuffed, we piled onto our bus for Jeff King’s Husky Homestead and our Distinctive Voyages Tour. It was probably the best DV tour I have ever had to offer in a dozen years of hosting.
Jeff King himself, the four time Ititarod champion, was there to talk to us along with Amanda Otto who’s still young and looking for her first win. They explained and demonstrated how they train the dogs and talked about the hardships they endure in this grueling 1100-mile race across the frozen tundra.

The big hits, of course, were the puppies, which we were all encouraged to pick up and cuddle, as part of their socialization training. We didn’t need to be coaxed. They were adorable:

I have a lot of puppy pictures. I also bought Jeff King’s book about his experiences. It’s a very good read.
Husky Homestead is very close to the Denali Princess Wilderness Lodge, so it was back there for a quick lunch and back on the road for our Tundra Wilderness Tour. This was another one with an engaging tour guide who had a lot of stories about how they live in Alaska among the moose, ptarmigan, dall sheep, ground squirrels, spruce grouse and golden eagles, all of which we saw. We didn’t see a bear, but we were sure there were some out there. It was a very good day.
On Saturday, July 29 it was time for our all-day train ride through the wilderness to Denali to Whittier, where we would board our ship, the Majestic Princess. We had to have our bags out by 6:00 am and breakfast over by 7:30 am, so I skipped it. The train departs Denali National Park at 8:15 am and arrives in Whittier at 6:00 pm for an 8:30 pm sailaway. Of course, it’s still light out in Alaska at that time in July.
Our train car steward and barman were a lot of fun and had a lot of interesting information to impart, along with the delicious libations, which you had to pay for. I bought everyone a drink on the train, to make up for the lack of a DV cocktail party. We only had 23 pax in the group (plus 2 kids) and Princess would have wanted 32 to give us that. Never mind, the train was as close to a party as we were going to get. We did have a lot of fun chatting with the group, though. The scenery was stunning, and the time passed easily.

When we got to Whittier, it was a short walk to the ship for the easiest embark, ever. Princess had checked us in on the train and given us our medallions, which opened our doors and bought us anything our little hearts could desire.
Everyone was just exhausted after a whole day on the train, so we had ourselves a nice dinner in Allegro, one of the three main dining rooms, and turned in.
We slept in until nine or so on Sunday, July 30 and got up slowly. We were cruising Hubbard Glacier with Ranger commentary. The ship is enormous, she takes about 3,500 passengers and has three dining rooms, as well as eight other places to eat and ten bars. We had ourselves a little look around and I emailed the group, so we would all be able to communicate.
Andrea and I went to the singles party, which is every night on this sailing but either all the great guys got snapped up last night or there was only one. He was nice enough but he was an Australian farmer. None of us saw any future in that. We had dinner in Concerto and liked it a little better than Allegro, but not much is different, except the color scheme. Andrea and I are eating alone and are beginning to wonder if that’s such a great idea. Luckily we get along well.
Only two ships a day are allowed to enter Glacier Bay, administered by the National Park Service and Monday, July 31 was our day. It was a nice clear day so there was plenty to see. As usual, I had a lot to do, so I didn’t give it my full attention, but we did leave the commentary playing in the room and I went out when it got most interesting. Andrea saw a good bit more.
I managed to write and deliver a letter to my people and at 5:30 pm, we were in the Crown Grill Bar, as advertised, and we were there alone. We had dinner in Symphony, the third dining room and now know we like Concerto best. The comedian, after dinner was Steve Moris and he was good.
Finally, on Tuesday, August 1, we docked in Icy Strait Point. The Princess nightly missive warned us that we would be sharing a berth with another ship, which meant that we would be docked until noon, stranded ashore from noon to 1:00 pm, while the ship relocated to a mooring, and tendering in the afternoon. Andrea and I figured we could see the place in an hour and be back on board by noon, and we were. Methinks Alaska is getting a tad crowded, though, given what it is.
We ate at Concerto again and took in the production show, Sweet Soul Music, which was better than the first.
On Wednesday, August 2, Andrea and I went out and enjoyed Juneau. We shopped a little and walked up and down the streets, poking our noses into a museum at one point. It’s not a big town. Here it is from our own verandah.

I started sending out the puppy pictures, from Husky Homestead in the afternoon. When 5:30 rolled around, we went to the Crown Grill Bar, but nobody came. We had dinner in Concerto again and the comedian was Michael Joiner, whom I also liked.
On Thursday, August 3, in Ketchikan, Alaska, we were sharing a berth again, so I worked in the morning when we were tendering and went out in the afternoon, once we were docked. Early in the day I finished sending out the puppy pictures.
Then we went out in Ketchican where I can highly recommend a little museum up a hill, The Tongass Historical Museum, where I took this interesting picture:

The featured artist, Ray Troll, and an archaeologist, Kirk Johnson, took a multi year trip in a van, discovering all kinds of fossils and depicting them with his whimsical art. It’s fabulous. I bought his book and gave it away, so I had to go looking for his name. You’ll find more of this fun art at Ray Troll Art Home | Art, Science, Music, News, T-shirts, Books, and more
Especially 2010-Recent – Troll Art
Then Andrea and I went to Harmony for the Chinese dinner I was kind of glad no one joined us for. It wasn’t all that authentic. The next day, Friday, August 4, was a sea day and I did have an office hour. I has offered boarding passes from my computer and that got a couple of takers, one of which would have to be postponed to Happy Hour because the flight was at 4pm tomorrow.
In the afternoon, I got a very cool email from one of the passengers with this sweet picture:

Later in Crown Grill Bar, there were three couples at happy hour, and I was busy making boarding passes for one of them, so I was happy to have a co-host. We learned why I hadn’t seen hardly anyone after we boarded. A lot of my big family group had been sick with various illnesses. So sad. Knowing them, they still managed to have some fun, though. Andrea and I ate alone again and took in the last production show, which was very good.
On Saturday, August 5, we docked in Vancouver, B.C., bade our fond farewells and disembarked. Pat Harrold picked me up in the terminal parking lot and I was off on the last phase of this adventure.




























































